Hiking in Karabakh

Janapar is a new hiking trail set to open in the Karabakh Region this spring. The region is full of amazing scenery and people, and the hope is that this trail will promote eco-tourism in the region and help the economy. I volunteered to test the new Janapar hiking trail. One day in early November, I set out in a marshutka (one of the mini-buses used as public transportation throughout Armenia) from Yerevan, crossed the Artzakh Mountain Range, and arrived in Stepanagurt. When I arrived, I found the local tourism ministry, got my tourist visa, and caught a quick marshutka to Shushi. From Shushi I started my hike south along the trail.

Late in the afternoon, I came to the small village of Karintak, located below the cliffs of Shushi. At about 4:30, I came across a man named Aram. Although my ability to speak and understand Armenian was not very good at all, he managed to communicate to me that night time comes very quickly in the valley we were in, and warned me of the wolves that can come out at night. He insisted that I stay at his home, and after hearing of the wolves, I was happy to accept the invitation.

That first night in Karintak was the first of many amazing nights I spent with families in the villages of the Karabakh region. We talked for hours, and Aram and his family were so nice as I tried to piece together sentences using my Armenian textbooks and dictionary. We ate lots of amazing food, watched Aram's 6 year old twin boys practice dancing, and drank homemade wine and an amazingly strong vodka the region is known for.

The hiking over the next few days was terrific. The walk from Karintak to Mokitarishen runs along a stream flowing between some spectacular cliffs, and I came across a small waterfall and very old stone bridge before leaving the valley. The trail surrounding Mokitarishen offered great views of Shushi and Stepanagert, and of the amazing mountains to the north. The next few days brought me through fields and rolling hills on my way to Azetarenots and Karmir Shuka. In Azokh I explored the caves overlooking the village. In each town I was struck by how friendly and giving the families I met were. I went to a number of family parties, ate delicious barbeque, and met wonderful people each night of the trip.

As I left Azokh on my last morning in Karabakh, I had to wake up before dawn to catch a marshutka back to Stepanagert. The night sky in Karabakh rivals that of the deserts in the American Southwest. Even the stars just above the horizon are very bright, and as I weaved through the hills on the way back to Stepanagert, I saw one of the nicest sunrises I have ever seen.

I was only able to do about 60 km of the trail, but I am looking forward to returning to Karabakh in the next few years to do the whole trip. I want to meet more great people and more of the amazing landscape, and to see the friends I made during my short time there.

Kapan's first Model UN

When my family left Armenia, the country was recovering from the aftershocks of the soviet collapse: economic devastation, a complete lack of governance and war. Not too many positive memories to hold on to but always with the yearning to go back. 12 years later, I was back in Armenia, reacquainting myself with a new and old country and most of all, trying to figure out where I belong and how I can contribute most. After having been there for almost three months, it is still difficult to figure out what works and what doesn’t. One thing was certain, however, any positive contribution makes an immediate difference because there’s such great need in almost every sector of life. This, needless to say, is encouraging for all initiatives that anyone ever undertakes. I wish I could have stayed longer to expand my scope into mock trials and moot courts as a way of promoting critical thinking and leadership. Next time!

I had been planning to come to Armenia in the summer of 2006 but I had just started a new job in Washington, DC and decided to wait another year. I finally took a leave of absence for two months so I could do an internship through AVC. I wasn’t certain as to what specific internship I wanted but my big goal was to witness development first hand and hear from the people meant to benefit from these efforts.

I interned at the Armenian United Nations Association (AUNA) where I lead a Model United Nations in Kapan, in southern Armenia. AUNA is an NGO established in 2005 to serve as a two-way bridge for cross-sharing values, principles and programs of the UN in Armenia and of Armenian values, traditions and cultural heritage through UN structures and programs. The staff was small but amazing to work with and I couldn’t have asked for better mentors. For a young organization, they have been active in mobilizing and engaging youth. They were first to introduce Model UNs in Armenia and several universities have started using the game as a practicum requirement for certain international relations faculties. In 2005, they helped organize “Gamats Gamats—Yavash Yavash,” a summer school program meant to build confidence between Armenian and Turkish youth through workshops and group work aimed at deconstructing history and discussing innovative ways of solving issues facing both nations.

My assignment was no random pick. As a native of Kapan, it was a perfect way to go back and experience my birthplace in a completely unfamiliar way. I was nervous, excited, a bit overwhelmed as my Armenian had suffered over the years and I’d have to learn the language of the UN in Armenian. I had heard of Model UNs but never participated or seen any. Not only that but I had to recruit 30 participants to represent the UN Security Council. With the help of the Ministry of Youth and Culture branch in Syunik, I was able to gather around 20 enthusiastic participants who brought fantastic energy and enthusiasm for the game. To my surprise, one of the participants was Gayane Grigoryan, a young and witty girl who was the daughter of my music school director who always gave my brother a hard time with his violin lessons. Shy at first, the participants slowly felt themselves to actually be delegates of their chosen countries. The debates became more heated, strayed from the script a bit and I kept asking questions just to provoke them and force them to think on their toes. To witness their passion and enthusiasm was my proudest moment. Most everyone had initially joined with a lot of uncertainty and apprehension and we lost some of them throughout the training seminars but it was beautiful to see those who stuck it through the end and shined gracefully.

It was amazing to get to know young people outside of Yerevan, connect with them on a personal level and give them the opportunity to engage in a game played all over the world as a way of practicing diplomacy and stepping into the shoes of ambassadors. Most importantly, it was a way for students to think critically and test their own skills in debating, consensus building and conflict resolution. I’m hoping that at least some of the participants will become more involved in government and civil society in the future. But at the very least, I’m hoping that they will become more confident representatives of themselves and Armenia at large.

Mary Vardazarian, Washington, DC, Spring/Summer volunteer 2007

Mama Sveta and Papa Vahan

As my Armenian comprehension improves, I'm learning some interesting things about my Gyumri host parents.

Mama Sveta is warm, loving woman. Mama Sveta was trained as nurse but has been out of work for seven months. The two hospitals in Gyumri have consolidated resources into one surgery hospital (with the help of U.S. funding). Good for that hospital, but not for the people at the other hospital like my mama. I can tell she is depressed. She doesn't know what to do with herself at home. She has a really hard time getting up in the morning. She made me breakfast the first couple of mornings, but she has started not waking up in time recently. It's actually fine with me, because I'd rather grab a coke lite and a muffin at a local bakery than gulp down last night's boiled chicken and fried potatoes.

I've asked her if she could work at another hospital or maybe do something else, but she says the other hospital is too far away and she is not trained to do anything else but be a nurse. I can tell they are having a hard time. There is always enough to eat, but our food is very simple and plain compared to some of the meals other volunteers are indulging in.

Mama Sveta is always telling me to "Ger, Ger Katie Jan" or "Eat Eat". I could have eaten them out of house and home and I don't think she would ever be satisfied. Before one excursion, she stuffed fistfuls of chocolates and candies into my bag to eat on my excursion. Who can say no to sugar for lunch!

The shower situation has been interesting at the house. I took several bucket baths at first but now we have a semi working shower (thanks to the Birthright requirement). Papa Vahan installed the showerhead and pump but the shower is very tempermental. It usually is pleasant for 10 seconds and then get hotter and hotter until it is almost scolding. Then it turns freezing cold. I have razor burn on my legs and my hair feels gross from shampoo remnants! Mama Sveta is very concerned with my showering. Now that she is aware of the problems, having experienced them herself, she feels the need to pop into the bathroom while I'm showering to get the temperature update. I swear, one day she popped her head in three times. No shower curtain, by the way. I kept telling her it was fine, but she kept coming in! Sevana's mama insists on washing her hair for her. Luckily, it hasn't come to that.

Saturday, I washed all of my clothes by hand in the bathroom. It took about 2.5 hours! Mama Sveta enjoyed coming in periodically and asking if I was tired yet. Maybe they felt they had to prove to me that washing clothes was back breaking work. I really had no doubt that it was, but I guess it was good for me. After all of my clothes were out on the line, Julia pulled her friend out on the balcony to look at my clothes. I still wonder what they were snickering about. Were my clothes not bedazzled enough for them, were they laughing at my underwear with the monkies on them? Guess I'll never know.

Papa Vahan is not home much. He drives a truck for the Russian Army.He seems drunk a lot to me, but I never really see him drinking. He chuckles when i talk and he seems to make fun of his wife a lot for his own entertainment. I think it is harmless, but I think it annoys Mama Sveta. One day I came home and he was 'sleeping' on the living room floor. That was interesting. He finally woke up, laughed at me in his little stupor and waddled off to bed. At dinner, Vahan reminds me a little of my own armenian grandfather. He whines and talks like a baby to his wife...mama get me this, mama please get me that. I'm so hungry, it's so hot in here! The sun is in my eyes, mama! She puts up with a lot from him, but he is a good guy overall. Just a big kid in a mans body.

Julia is typical young adult. She is twenty. She just finished college and is going to a teaching university in the fall. She has more clothes than i do. Tons of bedazzled shirts, matching handbags and a cupboard full of lotions, cosmetics that she probably received as gifts over the years. She will not use them. I think it just makes her feel good to have them and smell them once in awhile. She does love her mousse though and her makeup. I'll have to post the picture of me after she did my hair of makeup. i'm a haystani beauty queen!

She texts on her phone a lot and dances to one horrible armenian song over and over again. She gossips a lot about her friends and neighbors. I think she wonders why I cut my hair short and why my clothes are so plain. I humored her on Saturday and went shopping with her after my laundry a thon. I bought some things to help me fit in. It was a fun day of haggling and exploring Gyumri on hot summer day. My new capri jeans say 'jeans' in little fake rhinestones on the left cuff. Shad Siroun.

Katie Riley

Dancing in Gyumri

Sevana Naaman
La Crescenta, CA

At the end of my first week of volunteer work at Pyunic in Gyumri, I had a clear cut goal of how I wanted to spend the following ten weeks of volunteer work. I was going to teach the children of Pyunic dance...Hip Hop and Latin American Dance. Pyunic is an organization serving disabled children, children who have disabled parents, and children whose families have a low socio-economic status. The Pyunic Center of Gyumri is a drop in center designed to provide the children of Gyumri a safe place to call "home," improve their talents, and social skills. At first, I felt that my position at Pyunic was replaceable and unnecessary but after two weeks things began to change. My dance class was scheduled three times a week from 12-2 in the afternoon...however, that soon changed to every working day. My students would show up an hour before class began and I would have to force them to leave. I taught my class of 15 kids, ages 6-19, four dances. The first was to Jennifer Lopez's "Let's Get Loud," the second was a Hip Hop dance to Chris Brown's "Run It," the third was a modern ballet to Dave Matthews' "Satellite," and finally one last Hip Hop dance to Timbaland's "The Way I Are."The most important part of this experience for me was noticing the evolution in my students. For example, the first two weeks of class my students would not smile, would not enjoy the music, and seemed like they were being forced to dance. But after some long classes, that at times seemed never ending, my students began to actually have fun. I think they began to trust themselves and finally trust me. Soon after, my students would often brag to me about how much they practiced the dances the night before at home and sometimes they would show me short combinations that they had created. One student's mother found me on the street on my way home from Pyunic and explained that whatever I was doing was really working because she had never seen her daughter so happy and excited about life. We held a dance concert at the end of July. Pyunic gained news coverage and lots of praise. My students felt like superstars... however, I always knew they were. They started to walk around with pride but most of all with smiles...something that the new generation living in Gyumri truly needs.My background is in Social Work, specifically working with youth and in an organization like Pyunic where the struggles of youth are plentiful, fun is what was needed. And through dance and music and humor, fun is what these kids got.I never expected to make a large impact in Armenia. I never expected to change the way the country works. But I dreamed that I would make one child smile. I dreamed that my presence and my work would bring a sense of normalcy to a child. I feel that I did create smiles. I feel like I have instilled a sense of pride in my students. I know that I accomplished what I wanted during my stay. And I know that I will return to Armenia.

Johnny Boghossian

Name: Johnny Boghossian
Age: 32
Hometown: Montreal, Canada
Length of AVC service: 2.5 months

Having just completed an MBA, I thought it was the best time to go on my first trip to Armenia and do so in the way I wanted to all along. My goal was to go on a longer trip and be there as a volunteer in order to contribute to the country and really meet people at the same time. My volunteer work in Armenia was at the Center for Agribusiness and Regional Development (CARD), which is an NGO funded by the USDA and aims at to develop the infrastructure of Armenian agricultural industries. CARD operates a goat breeding center in the town of Yeghegnadzor and that is where they sent me for the second month of my stay. Called ARID, the center imports purebreds from America and Europe and crossbreeds them with local Armenian goats in order to enhance their milk productivity. The USDA however which has financed all these projects from day one severely cut funding this year (by 70%) leaving ARID scrambling to find ways of becoming financially sustainable. My job was to review there finances and consult the management on the best business strategy they should undertake.

The project got me out into the countryside where I saw a completely different perspective of Armenia, one far away from the night clubs, cafes, and bars of Yerevan. Instead of spending evenings dodging Yerevan traffic, I spent them picking fruits off trees with my host family and grilling Armenian khorovadz in view of some spectacular mountains. As a result, I saw a side of Armenian culture untouched by music videos and neon lights; one that hinted at how our ancestors could have lived hundreds of years ago and at their customs which still live on.

The project itself was incredibly fulfilling. I came to it with absolutely no agricultural experience, however during my time at the center I visited cheese producers, goat farmers, and distant villages up in the mountains; I witnessed the birth of a goat and came away with an appreciation for everything that goes into getting food from the earth to our tables. All the while I met Armenians and learned about my own culture and of the history and people of this young republic. I hope the plan I provided the managers assists them with their strategy, but I know that for me every moment of my two months in Armenia was well worth it.

Planting trees

In the summer of 2006, I decided that it was time to put my career as a teacher on hold and complete one of my life long goals: to work and live in Armenia. I was able to fulfill my dream in January of 2007 with the help of the Armenian Volunteer Corps. AVC placed me with Armenian Forests NGO. With a background in Environmental Studies, previous non-profit work, and an appreciation and love for the great outdoors, I felt like this was the right place for me to contribute to the future health and growth of Armenia.
Armenia is witnessing the rapid loss of precious forest cover. This loss of forests contributes to many problems that are connected to the social and economic well being of Armenia. These problems include: loss of biodiversity and fertile topsoil used for farming, mudslides, floods, change in local climate, desertification, economic hardship caused by the loss of wild plants and herbs, and increased air pollution. The World Bank estimates that if the current rate of deforestation continues, Armenia's forests will disappear in 20 years.
Armenian Forests NGO is an Armenian based non-profit organization that has a broad approach to protecting and restoring the natural environment in Armenia, including hands on reforestation, environmental policy, enforcement, awareness-raising, advocacy, and civic participation. Armenian Forests NGO has been reponsible for various projects such as restoration of 702 ha (1735 acres) of forests (1, 150,350 trees) through planting and coppicing as of the end of 2006.
I had the opportunity to work with Armenian Forests for 4 months. In that time, I researched potential funding opportunities for a reforestation project on Ara Mountain and created a date base for future reference. In addition, Armenian Forests was published on the onepercentfortheplanet.org website. Onepercentfortheplanet.org is an organization that gives big corporations an opportunity to donate money to environmental organizations in order to offset their carbon emissions. I was able to foster dialogue between Armenian Forests and Carbonfund.org which is a similar organization that deals with carbon offsetting. Carbonfund.org with the help of Armenian Forests, is looking to plant between 30,000-100,000 trees in Armenian using money from the Dell Corporation to offset their computer waste in Asia. We are keeping our fingers crossed on that project!
During my 4 months in Armenia, I had the pleasure to work with knowledgeable, hard working, and passionate people. The staff at Armenian Forests NGO is dedicated to helping the future of Armenia and it was an inspiration to be around such positive, energetic, and hopeful people. I learned many things from the talented staff. Furthermore, being able to meet Diasporan Armenians who share the same enthusiasm was truly an inspirational experience. I leave Armenia with added knowledge, friendships, a hope for a great country, and an unforgettable experience that will stick with me for years to come.

Websites you can refer to for more information:
www.onepercentfortheplanet.org
www.armenianforests.am
www.carbonfund.org

Karen Kazanci winter/spring 2007 28, Long Beach, California

AVC Volunteer oversees Hospital Renovation

AVC volunteer Joe Levonian from Australia worked for 9 months at the Pediatric Hematology Hospital of Armenia. Noticing the unsanitary and dilapidated conditions of the Hospital, Joe decided to fund raise in order to undertake renovations which would make the facilities safer for the patients. Check out this video of Joe overseeing the renovations which are now underway at the hospital.



Read about more of Joe's volunteer activities hospitals in Armenia here.